February 9, 2010 at 2:34 pm #954
Bought a 2001 with 88k miles a week ago. This weekend, it started squealing (worst when idling, you can’t hear it as bad once you start accelerating) and dropping some oil. So I’m trying to trace down where the oil leak is actually coming from. In the meantime, I checked the drive belts and there are signs of cracking/fraying. Is this a job that I can do myself pretty easily or is it best to take it in? I doubt the timing belt has been done either (doesn’t seem like too much was done, the air filter had so much dirt, it looked like it was smeared with grease/tar) so should I just take it in and have all 4 done? I forgot to ask what it’d cost to do the timing belt too but I was told about $200 for the 3 drive belts at nissan. I assume and maybe I’m wrong, but I’d think the labor to do the 3 would be similar to the belt so doing them all at once should save me some $ right? The belt is due by 105k miles anyway which is why I was considering doing it now. I can’t really see how it looks though.
Is there a DIY for replacing the drive belts on a 2001 or can someone help me figure out what has to be removed/moved out of the way to get to them? There’s not much room to work in there.
Not as big of a deal but does anyone know how to get to the rear speakers? I don’t want to accidentally break any clips or paneling….but the rear speakers are crackling and it actually gets worse when I fade them off. It doesn’t bug me much because I can only hear them when I fade them but the rear passengers don’t like it too much. I haven’t decided if I’m just going to disconnect them or replace them yet though. Any help with either way of doing it would be appreciated.March 2, 2010 at 2:00 pm #4146
The external belts are easy to replace. You need to access to the tensioners to loose them and remove them. You start with the most external which is the A/C belt. Then you go into the water pump belt, and finally the steering pump belt.
As for the timing belt, I replace the belt myself on my ’99 Quest. My understanding it the engines are similar if not the same. It is a full day job and you have to have everything ready including the water pump. You will need to get a good breakout bar to loose the pulley screw. Then, you will also need a puller to remove the pulley. Not difficult unless you don’t have the necessary tools.
Rear speaker, you have to remove the side panels to get access to it. You have to remove the safety belts using a torx key. Then, you can remove the panels. If your car has a premium sound system, the cracking sound is coming from the sub-woofer. I replaced mine purchasing a bazooka speaker. It is not the exact same dimension, but it is very close. The bazooka has double 2-ohm coil. The original is a 1-ohm coil. So, you have to wire the bazooka coils in parallel to obtaing the 1-ohm equivalent load. Bazooka Model #: WF621.5DV is the one you need @ http://www.bazooka.comMarch 9, 2010 at 2:45 pm #4165
it’s been mentioned a few times already on this site referring to nicoclub.com’s acrobat pdf file for the REAL service manual… i’ve got it and it worked wonders when i was diagnosing and confirming a bad vss sensorMarch 28, 2010 at 1:57 am #4220
i was quoted 350 at a local sts for the timing belt/wp and acc beltsJuly 27, 2011 at 3:06 am #5061
I just changed out the timing belt , tensioner, water pump, and thermostat. It starts good and does not spit or spudder. I have no engine codes and it runs out good once moving getting 18 mpg, but it does not have any get it and go from a dead start. All the timing marks were where they were supposed to be: I lined them up and placed the new belt and tensioner exactly the same position because it had not jumped time. It also had a new tps replaced about 12 months back. According to all data diy program the distributor is adjustable if so why not try this to see if it would help, but my cousin who manages a Firestone center suggest taking it back apart again because he thinks it not lined up. I am sure the mark were correct he thinks other wise. P.S. it had 190,00 miles on the belt with a lot of play, but it still had plenty of get up and go before I changed the old belt. My question is: could the slack of the old belt and bad tensioner, and the new timing belt and tensioner with no slack cause this problem of no get up and go from start issue( thus the reason for an adustment on the distribtor)or am I going back to the drawing board? HELP!September 16, 2011 at 5:49 pm #4283
… nice price
i’ve seen the room (or lack of it) on the passenger side of this tranverse-mounted engine… where the belts are seems like a pain in the @$$ to do the timing belt
OP, you still have time since timing belt interval is 105,000 miles
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.