March 19, 2012 at 8:51 pm #1572
I have a 2004 Quest Van. Today, I started it up just fine. Was about 200 yards from the train station, and when I took a left turn, the accelerator went straight to the floor, and the entire engine died. After coasting to a stop, i tried starting the engine.
The engine is trying to turn over, but it just won’t kick in and start.
Oil is filled to right level
It has half a tank of gas
The fuel pump fuse is still o.k.
Could this be a fuel pump issue? I know there is a fuel pump relay under the hood, but I cannot tell when fuse box it’s in, and even if I did, don’t see a schematic as to where in the box it is. I know you can test the relay, but I don’t know how to test it. I would rather test a relay than buying a 300.00 fuel pump, install it only to find out that’s not the issue.
Any help someone can provide would be great. Thanks!
I take things back, I can hear the fuel pump energize when I turn the key to the on position. However, the car will not start. I removed the fuel pump relay, tested it, and it works. I know it’s the fuel pump relay, cause when I removed it, fuel pump would not start whirring, and I found a schematic. 🙂
Prior to all of this I failed to mention throwing a p0021 code, and a p0300. I replaced the camshaft sensor last night, but still, the engine will not start. What is weird is that when the car died today, the gas gauge showed half full, and now it shows out of gas and the gas pump light is on. Just strange. any ideas anyone???March 20, 2012 at 2:11 pm #5560
I think your computer(ECM) just died.
That is what happen with mine. It sounded like the fuel pump died, but my we could not pull any codes.
Search this website for ECM failure and be prepared to fight to get your money back on this repair.March 20, 2012 at 4:04 pm #5561
I am able to pull codes on mine, so what do you think about that?
Also, where do you search? I used what’s on the right side of the screen, but nothing comes up.March 20, 2012 at 8:08 pm #5562
According to the service manual (Quest’99-02), when the ECM fails, it is not possible to read diagnostic codes and the ECM goes into fail-safe. With ECM in fail-safe mode, the engine should operate with certain limitations that include: engine not able to go over 3000 RPM, multiport fuel injection, fixed ignition timing, and IACV-AAC valve is fully opened. This mode of operations confirms the need to replace ECM.
On the other hand, one basic test is to check for failure of ignition. Remove one sparkplug and have a visual confirmation for spark. If there is none, check for ignition signal to the distributor. The failure could be in this order: a short cirtuit in the harness or connectors to the distributor, power transistor (inside distributor), resistor opened(external to distributor), camshaft position sensor and/or circuit (already replaced), ignition coil in short or open (inside distributor).March 20, 2012 at 8:42 pm #5563
motc7 – Here’s an excellent discussion on P0021 for a 2005 Quest (scroll down the page):
Here’s another discussion that shows the problem could be related to additives in the oil that could have blocked passages to the intake timing solenoid.
Let us know if these help.March 21, 2012 at 4:15 am #5565
I looked at the additive one and really that one didn’t apply to me.
The first link that you posted I took a hard look at. I measured my bank 2 IVT Solenoid and it measured right according to the picture from the manual that he posted. It tested at 7.5 Ohms between the two pins, and I got nothing when testing either one to ground which I assume is OK?
The Step 3 in that picture says to remove intake valve timing control solenoid but seems to stop there. What’s next?March 21, 2012 at 4:18 am #5566
thanks for the response to you as well. and thanks to the other guy I responded to!
you say “Remove one sparkplug and have a visual confirmation for spark.” How do I do that? Where do I look to see the spark? Also, my vehicle is distributorless, as it’s all ignition coils.March 21, 2012 at 2:25 pm #5571
in the search on the right, put in ECM failure and the links for Questdriver will pop up.
This is the link to one of the discussions: http://questdriver.com/node/546
I still think it is your ECM. Let us know the results. Thank you.March 21, 2012 at 2:54 pm #5572
I checked out that link again, and very eye opening. Question, how do you test the ECM to see if it’s working? Do you have instructions that I can follow? I rather not tow it to a garage right now, pay 80 dollars for them to tell me, yeah, it’s the computer.
Also, I saw that some people say that once you replace the ECM, you have to have it reprogrammed. Can a regular shop do this, or must it be the Nissan Dealer? Thanks so much for your help. I feel like I’m getting closer to a solution.March 21, 2012 at 3:15 pm #5574
Sorry, I don’t know how you would check the ECM.
Nissan would not sell the ECM to my mechanic, because it had to be reprogrammed and all the keys have to be reprogrammed as well.
The ECM is covered under emission warrantee, but they will claim it failed because of corrosion, which will make it not covered by the warrantee. I had to pay for the repair then had a lawyer send a letter to get a refund.March 21, 2012 at 4:27 pm #5575
Do you know how to check for spark? Another poster said remove a sparkplug and test for spark, but i don’t know what they mean?March 22, 2012 at 7:37 pm #5581
You’ve now surpassed my area of expertise but I am good at doing Google searches. Here’s the closest thing I could find for the intake valve timing control solenoid: http://www.theautopartsshop.com/engine-variable-timing-solenoid/dor917011.html
I would also call a Nissan dealership to find out their pricing (and name of the part). I had this happen when replacing a part. It was listed as one name in the TSB but called another name under the official Nissan part. It even through off the Nissan parts worker.
Good luck.April 16, 2012 at 3:14 pm #5640
Got some more information. I tried testing to see if I had blown a head gasket by attempting to crank the engine for nearly a full minute. Took off the radiator cap and nothing flying out the radiator. That’s a good thing!
Still won’t start though. I am wondering, I found a spark plug/coil tester at AutoZone. I can get to the first three spark plugs easily enough to test. If one was a betting man, given that my check engine light was showing a 0300 code before, which doesn’t reference a particular cylinder, which cynlinder would be a problem?
I was also getting as mentioned before a p0021 code, which refers to bank 2, which would be the side of the engine closest to me. If so, the firing order is 123456. so am I to assume that if 1 or 2 doesn’t fire at all, the engine is not going to start?April 18, 2012 at 4:21 pm #5646
I found out how to test for spark. So I did that last night with the plugs that are right on the front of the engine. All three of them are showing no spark at all.
To be fair, again, vehicle is over 100K and the plugs show a huge gap in them and are charred. The contact surface looks like the end of a sharpened pencil. I’ve got someone saying that it’s possible that due to the condition of the plugs, I could have shorted out all the coils, but I’m not so sure.
The other thing I think I’m coming back to is that if I put new plugs in, and even if I replaced say one of the coils and it still didn’t spark, would that be a definite on the ECM being bad? Can the ECM be replaced by putting it in and the car still start and run? i know it needs to be programmed but is that programming to get the engine to start, or other things?
Any ideas guys?
Oh yes. when testing for spark, I can smell gas, so i believe I’m getting fuel o.k. But definitely, I have no spark.September 8, 2012 at 3:28 am #5933
Yes sir it look like it the ecm,had the same probleme on my quest 2004 sl.They change the ECM a 1000.00 $ parts lucky it was still on waranty.
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