October 17, 2016 at 12:25 am #12101
I have a problem with a Nissan quest 2007. The power door, driver’s side, won’t lock. It appears that the door latches properly, because the door can’t be pushed open (at least by a reasonable amount of force), and it has never opened by itself or anything like that. The power doors have been a nightmare so far. They get stuck in winter and once a power door didn’t close properly in cold temperatures without any indication, and it proceeded to open while the car was locked a half hour later and set of the alarm. But there’s a “new” problem, which has possibly existed since at least 2 years ago. 2 years ago, the door opened while locked when the handle was pulled and set off the alarm, but it was cold and that was attributed to ice blockage or something. It has just been realized, however, that the door can repeatedly be opened and closed while the car is locked, regardless of the temperatures or whether there is winter weather (snow, ice, etc.), which is not the case here at all. The door just lets us open it from the outside if we give the handle a pull. The motor works and the interior lights come on and everything. Initially, the car alarm goes off, but it stays disabled after opening the door once. It’s quite scary how that has potentially been a problem for at least 2 years. But nothing has been stolen yet, probably because nobody wants to steal from a beat-up minivan that they would only find packages of crackers and a box of tissues inside.
I noticed that compared to the power door on the passenger side, every connector and hook and whatnot is symmetrical except for what I assume is the locking mechanism (it is a black clamp on the door that presumably clamps onto a hook on the “B pillar” of the van (I hope that is the correct terminology). Well, anyway, on one door, it is orientated with the 2 screws on the top and one on the bottom, and the other side the reverse. I have no idea if this is standard or a manufacturing error. I can only guess that the right side’s orientation is the correct orientation, well, because it is the one that locks.
I unfortunately do not have any photos, yet. It is 8 pm and taking photos of my van’s malfunctioning doors isn’t really my priority right now, but I’ll upload some later if looking at broken doors is your interest. Could anyone please check if their locking mechanisms are similar to that description? Thank you.
There is no online documentation.October 17, 2016 at 7:46 pm #12111
Feel your pain! The doors getting stuck probably are the major factor in them failing prematurely. I found that in Winter it helps to spray rubber molding where door makes contact with the chassis with Silicon spray lubricant, but unfortunately that has to be done like daily. It does not last.
Here’s something I did not quite get: when all your doors are locked, can you still pull on the driver sliding door handle and open it? Does it unlock itself then?
My passenger power door failed a few years back and I found the root cause to be the rusted rear hinge that slides back and forth along the rail at the waist height. I disassembled the actuator and found that from excessive effort involved in collapsing that hinge the cable gnawed through plastic gear and broke it. I since removed the actuator and operate the door manually.
The rusted hinges can be removed and worked back and forth while applying lots of WD40, then Lithium grease until they are back to normal. For me that was very involved, as I had to use a couple of breaker bars initially to even move the hinge slightly, but after about 30 cycles it started to free up with liberal spraying of WD40.October 17, 2016 at 9:29 pm #12131
When I pull on the door handle, I can either let the motor (which turns on) open the door, or pull the door to the opened position manually, but it certainly knows that if shouldn’t be doing that, because the alarm does go off to irritate every neighbor. I can close it up again and I’ll hear a clicking noise as if it locks, but I am not familiar with the design of the door so I am not sure if it uses the same latch for locking the door and just preventing it from inadvertently sliding open. It does seem to secure, because I cannot pull on the door with raw force to open it, the handle has to be pulled to disengage some locking mechanism before I can open the door. But the alarm sounds nevertheless, and I know for a fact that it is locked. I’ve used both the key fob and the master Lock button on the driver door. I’ve discovered that the door does decide to lock intermittently, almost whenever I try to demonstrate it. Really bizarre.October 17, 2016 at 9:37 pm #12141
However, the doors really weren’t designed too well. Spraying lubricant or a sealant onto a door in winter weather definitely should not be necessary. But it’s something that we have to deal with, I guess. Personally, I’ve never had any doors rust on me, yet, but the design of the rails is quite silly. Why not design it so that water can freeze onto it and block the door? The bottom rails underneath the step also aren’t that great. It is not too convenient to clean an area with lubricant sprayed over everything that’s coated with dirt and leaves because the designers didn’t bother to have some kind of rubber seal protecting snow from shoes, dropped Skittles, and other debris from entering. (there is actually a corner of the door that even while closed allows rolling objects to enter the area.)October 17, 2016 at 9:53 pm #12151
Your problem sounds like purely electric or electronic to me. I left my van with the parents about 2 years ago and they are driving it, so I do not exactly remember what happens when I pull on the sliding power door handle when everything is locked down. It probably does nothing at all, but I will double-check tonight.
Knowing that Nissan is absolutely horrible for the electric problems, it may be very difficult and time consuming to fix.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.