March 4, 2010 at 10:06 pm #980
If your mini-van has a premium sound system and you have a speaker cracking at the back left side of the car, the cracking sound is coming from the sub-woofer.
After searching and searching, I replaced mine purchasing a bazooka sub speaker. It is not the exact same dimension, but it is very close. The original speaker is one-ohm impedance. The bazooka has two 2-ohm coils. So, you have to wire the bazooka coils in parallel to obtaing the 1-ohm equivalent load. I transferred the outter spacer from the old sub and installed it in the new sub. The bazooka handles more power that the OEM. So, it should outlast your van.
Bazooka Model #: WF621.5DV is the one you need @ http://www.bazooka.com
I tought about sharing this tip.November 29, 2011 at 3:47 pm #5289
Hi, I was wondering if the rear speaker panel removal for a 1999 is the same as a 2000? I have a bad speaker back there and I do not think it is a Bose system.
Can I get some details on removing the side panels?
ThanksDecember 4, 2011 at 12:22 am #5300
To remove the rear panels you need to remove the seat belts, middle and read rows. You also need to remove the small rear panels that hold the rear tray behind the third seat. Then you have to pull the panels to release the pressure locks. Start from the middle section to the rear.
If your van has premium sound, it will have one 6″ sub + one 4″ speaker in the left side and one 4″ speaker in the right side.
If it is not premium sound, it will have one 6×8 at each side.December 4, 2012 at 3:13 pm #6121
Hi my quest (01) has no bass from rear speakers. I found a relay on ebay that shows amplifier relay could that be the problem or is the relay i am mentioning for the rear wiper like the one up front on the drivers side inner fender? I checked all the fuses but cannot get any good sound out of the rear at higher volumes. Please let me know what you think. Also the relay i am talking about is part number F4XA-15437-AB Thanks….December 4, 2012 at 4:07 pm #6122
If you have no bass but you still have sound, then you are likely to have a premium sound system and your sub-woofer is suspect. There are no relays in the sound system by the way.
The amplifier in the sub is a small metalic box attached to the composite box that holds the sub-wofer. The amplifier receives power-on (terminal 3 on sub-amplifier) and sound signals (terminals 1, 2, and 4) from the main radio receiver system. The sub-woofer amplifier has a 20A fuse (No.11, located in the fuse box) that goes to sub-woofer amplifier terminal 6. The sub-woofer has an amplifier that might be bad or the sub itself might be culprit. All above is assuming you still have the factory audio unit.
If you have an after market radio unit, then it is very likely the sub-woofer was not connected. You need to make the new connections using the pre-amp RCA type connectors on the back of the sound system and the power-on signal to turn on the sub-amplifier. You will also need a small sub-harness if you don’t want to start cutting wires.December 4, 2012 at 5:05 pm #6124
It is the factory head unit. When i first got the van the audio fuse was burnt out. I replaced it and still no bass from the back. Like i said sounds pretty good at lower volumes but at higher volumes it is just all treble… I will pull it apart and check it out. Is there a power light on the amp that shows it is or has power as an aftermarket amp does? Do you happen to know a model number of the amp? ThanksDecember 4, 2012 at 10:29 pm #6128
I don’t remember if there is a light to confirm power. Start checking the fuse for the amplifier, fuse No 11 in fuse box.
If fuse is good, then check if the head unit has the sub-woofer connector in. The head unit has three connectors in the back, two bigs and one small. The small connector is the one for the sub. If connected to the radio, then check the sub in the back. You need to remove the rear panel in the driver’s side. If the amplifier is bad, it will be very difficult to find the same replacement. The original sub-woofer is 1-ohm / 60 watts if not mistaking. If you go with a new sub, you will have to match sub-speaker impedance and power to the new amplifier. You will probably have to replace the box unless you go with the 6″ bazooka sub I recommended in the original post (1 or 4 ohm / 100 Watts). The bazooka almost fits perfectly but the adaptation is not difficult.
Let me know how it goes. Good Luck.
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