Replacing Driver side front wheel bearing…

New Topics Forums General Discussion 2004 – 2009 Nissan Quest Replacing Driver side front wheel bearing…

This topic contains 9 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  mgsblackballoon 5 years, 10 months ago.

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  • #1132

    keybrdcowboy
    Participant

    Does anyone have any good instructions/pics on this job. I have a 2006 S with 62XXX miles and I have finally determined that the noise we are hearing is the wheel bearing. I see parts like Timken Wheel Hub – 2004-2009 Nissan Quest (the forum won’t let me post a link, keeps telling me the spam filter blocks it) and was wondering if that was all I needed? Do I need to lube/grease anything else while there? Any gaskets/seals? Do I need special tools? How hard is this job? Any and all replies will be helpful… thanks!

    #4456

    markathome
    Participant

    Just had both of ours replaced on the front. The bearing is a whole assembly, that requires you to basically take everything apart. You’ll need an alignment afterwards. Was around $800 to have mine replaced.

    #4462

    keybrdcowboy
    Participant

    Anyone have any idea about what tools are needed? I am hoping to get this project going this weekend… thanks.

    #4467

    lalito26
    Participant

    Is not that difficult but takes time i did it my self i got the complete wheelhub from XL autoparts $200’s each i replaced both sides also brake disks and ceramic brake pads on all 4 wheels about $700 (ask for a package deal)

    Now you need to disassemble the brakes hang them on the side if not replacing the brakes try to keep evething together if posible so you dont have to bleed the sistem.

    use a 10mm to disconect the bolt thats on the back of the hub then a 17mm or 14mm deep socket for the 4 bolts behind the front wheelhub turn the wheel to the side to get to them i cant remember the big socket for the cv axle 11/8 i think

    Good luck on the project, patiens and band aids dont forget!!!!!!

    #4473

    keybrdcowboy
    Participant

    Well, just finished this project. Kinda. Disassebmly was pretty straightforward, however, reassembly was not. How hard is it supposed to be to get the new wheel hub back in? Mine would not slide on there with just my arm strength. I had to get a hammer and I gently (mostly) tapped all sides of the hub to get it to slide back on. It finally went back on, but how can I be sure it is in there all the way? Along with replacing the wheel hub on the drivers side, I also installed new rotors and brake pads, and now I have a grinding noise coming from the drivers side. (Front of course…) It’s too dark for me to look at tonight, but now I have to wonder if it is something with the brakes, or something with the wheel hub. Anyone have any clues as to what I should check? Anyway of knowing for sure if the wheel hub is in correctly? Thanks!

    #4517

    thumper300zx
    Member

    If I forgot something, sorry — not responsible 🙂

    Get hub. Timken suggested. $120 on AMAZON.com (right now)
    Apply emergency brake.
    Choke rear wheels.
    Loosen lugs slightly (21mm) on side you’re replacing hub.
    Jack up front of car using jack point front middle.
    USE JACK STANDS TO STABILIZE front end! JUST DO IT! BETTER THAN DYING!
    Remove tire completely.
    Remove brake caliper (22mm) — make sure it’s not hanging as it could stress/damage hose.

    Remove nut for ANTI-LOCK BRAKE/TIRE POSITION SENSOR (10mm). You need to remove the sensor as it goes into the hub and you could damage it if you don’t pull it out. FOR ME THIS WAS STUCK IN GOOD!!! Use some PB Blaster on all bolts at this point as it will make things easier. I had to use some thin flat head screw drivers to SOFTLY pull up at the sensor until it loosened up and came out. DON’T BREAK IT!!!!

    You need to remove the cotter pin for axle nut. Then you need a 32mm (use a deep socket, 6 sided impact socket). I have a compressor and impact wrench — this made it easy. I suggest not using a breaker bar because you could get loose and round the threads. It’s a tight sucker!

    Ok…now you need to get to the FOUR (4) 17mm bolts holding on the hub from the back. I suggest a GOOD, 6-POINT 3/8 socket, universal joint, and a couple different extensions. Make sure the 17mm is seated well, use a hammer to loosen as needed. Once torque is broken, they should be easy to remove.

    Once you have those four bolts out, it’s time for the fun part 🙂 If you have a nice big puller, you can loosen the CV from the HUB. Just get it started. NOW, you will probably see the HUB is still stuck! Get a hammer and pound it from the back side (of the hub) until it breaks free. It’s probably rusted in a bit, which is why it’s tight. Don’t lose the backing plate! You’ll want that back in 🙂

    Once you have it off, you’ll begin reversing the procedure. When you put the hub back in, you have to make sure the bolt hold line up. Also, make sure the hole for the ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SENSOR is in the correct location or it won’t go in when it’s time. Make sure you get the hub set back in all the way and torque things down to spec — then put the anti lock sensor back in. Once you torque things down, the hub should sit into it’s hole properly. DON’T FORGET THE HUB BACKING PLATE!!! (it may have fallen off or you might have set it aside while working).

    From there you should be able to go in reverse, torquing to spec.

    Someone said you’ll need to get an alignment. That may or may not be necessary. Just check tire wear. If you wear to inside, you’re probably toed out and need to adjust a bit in. If you wear outside, it’s probably toed in and needs and adjust out. That’s easy. Alignments are a waste of money — do your own by trial and error and you should be able to get it set right in a few tries. (you can also paint a line across the tire, take it for a quick drive, and see if it’s wearing to one side or the other).

    Your tires may have some bad wear from your bad bearing, so check the tires before you put them back on to make sure you aren’t misdiagnosing.

    #4690

    Kyle700
    Participant

    I just did my drivers side bearing/hub. I was easier than I thought, took about an hour. However, the SLIP and TCS lights are still on. Will they of off by themselves, or does a dealer have to reset it? The sensor itself is intact and looks ok.

    #4694

    cirrus
    Participant

    For those of you who did this yourself. Couple questions.

    1) How tight were the back bolts holding the hub assembly? Did you need impact wrench or a breaker bar?

    2) Was pulling out the old and installing the new hub assembly fairly effortless on the Quest? Do you think I will need to hammer it out or use a puller?

    3) When you buy the new hub assembly, does it specify the left or the right side, or both are identical?

    Thanks

    #4716

    Kyle700
    Participant

    I used an impact wrench, I used a hammer to tap both sides and it came off fairly easy, the front hubs are the same for both sides (according to Timkin).

    #5398

    mgsblackballoon
    Participant

    Hi all I have a 2006 Quest base with 45k miles and for a month the increasing noise that I was getting I THOUGHT was a tire that was cupping, as it had kind of a “whump whump whump” sound to it… I even replaced the tires even though all they had was REALLY light feathering… but the noise remained. I

    It’s increased now (happens even when coasting in neutral btw).. could it be a hub bearing? It’s somewhere in the front, no real shake, but I can change the pitch with hard yaw to the left… at which point it almost completely goes away.

    I guess the reason I ask is that I always thought when a hub went bad, it was a continual grind sound or hum (that changes pitch with lean) but it was CONTINUAL, not like this whump-whump-whump sound. But I’m getting more convinced its the LF hub assy. Could I be right? Any input as soon as possible would help!

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