November 2, 2016 at 7:07 pm #12501
I have been working on a 1999 Nissan Quest to replace the water pump and timing belt. I have tried aligning the timing marks but the cam that is closest to the firewall keeps bouncing out of time. I have put on this belt 5 times and the car either didn’t start or idled rough and would not go over 1500 rpm at full throttle. Can you give me some tips on what you guys did to change your timing belts? This is my first time changing a timing belt and I am glad that this is a non-interference engine.
Thanks!November 2, 2016 at 7:22 pm #12511
First question: Do you have the service manual of the van?
Second: you will have to open the belt again to double check the cam positions and belt alignment with cams and crank. I have done this change twice already and the procedure is straight forward when you follow the service manual.
If you need the service manual, you can download it from wwww.nicoclub.com.
Yes, it is a good thing this is non-interference engine. Thus, you have not done any damage to the pistons and valves.
Does your new belt have the white line marks for belt alignment confirmation?November 2, 2016 at 7:30 pm #12521
Yes, the new belt does have the white lines but I wasn’t sure how to use them. I do not have the service manual for the car. The car belongs to my friend’s mother-in-law and I am doing this repair for free. I am really glad I had my dad get a mechanic to change his 2005 Honda Pilot timing belt since that car has an interference engine. I will go to Nicoclub and look for that service manual.November 3, 2016 at 2:39 pm #12522
The service manual explains how to use the white line marks of the belt to correctly align the cams and crankshaft. I believe that is where your problem is. You could be one tooth off in one, two, or all of them.
I have also done timing belt replacement in my Honda Accord and Acura MDX and the process is the same. I have all the service manuals of my cars to prevent mishaps.
Keep me posted on your progress, I would like to help you turn that van back into full operation. I love these vans.November 5, 2016 at 12:01 am #12531
So I took everything apart and used the lines on the belt. The car started up fine this time and runs well! Turns out that since I could not see the dimples for the cams located closest to the firewall and I used my fingers to feel for them, I located that felt like a dimple and put the belt on. One of the cams was timed perfectly, which is why the car started and the other cam was rotated about 90 degrees off. The only problem now is that the car overheats, which it did not before until it lost a lot of water, but that is likely because I did not burp the system. It was getting late and I needed to go to school in the morning.November 7, 2016 at 2:49 pm #12541
I am glad you got it working with the proper belt position.
The coolant system takes some time to get the air out. One technique is to fill in with the front of the van on a jack to have the radiator cap as the highest point.
Also, run the A/C heater at maximum temp to have hot coolant recirculation inside the heater core and hoses. Keep the coolant reservoir filled with coolant and watch its level for the first hot/cold cycles. The system will burp the air and suck in the coolant. If the coolant is not being sucked correctly leaving low level of coolant in the radiator after a cycle of operation, replace the radiator cap.
One important observation, DO NOT USE WATER ONLY in the coolant system. Always use 50/50 coolant as a minimum to prevent internal corrosion. If you purchase concentrated coolant, mix it 50/50 with distilled water. DO NOT USE TAP WATER.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by prgonzalez.
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